Between the Lines

Keeping with the Cooking Theme

Whenever I visit a new restaurant, I usually try to recreate what I was served — partly out of curiosity, and partly because I tend to order only what truly appeals to me.

On my recent trip to Venice, around noon we went in search of a place for lunch. Prices have risen sharply these past couple of years, and I’ve noticed a curious trend: since most diners now favor appetizers, their prices have quietly climbed to match those of the main courses.

So, our choice of restaurant must strike a delicate balance — affordable yet refined, serving light, thoughtful dishes rather than tourist fare. We avoid those ambiguous pizzeria–restaurant hybrids, and steer clear of menus that read like small novels (a sure sign that nothing will be fresh). Quality comes first. Then, seating — which in Venice can be deceiving at first glance. Outdoor dining is always a must, except on those foggy, humid winter days when even the gondolas seem to disappear into the mist.

This time, we ended up at Rosa Rossa, tucked away in Calle della Mandola — or, if you want to be precise, San Marco 3709 – 30124. It’s one of those addresses only the postman truly knows. Better to type “Calle della Mandola” into Google Maps, or even Rio Terrà degli Assassini — the restaurant has two entrances, one as colorful as the other.

I settled immediately on the Porcini Carpaccio, and it was the right choice. I’ve since tried to recreate it at home, as porcini mushrooms are now in their full, glorious season at the farmers’ markets.

As you might guess, Porcini Carpaccio isn’t a difficult dish — but it does require care. The mushrooms must be absolutely fresh, sliced paper-thin (no small feat with their tender flesh). The dish was dressed with a hint of orange zest, fine olive oil, and an exquisite balsamic vinegar, then finished with a sprinkle of freshly grated Parmesan.

It was one of those dishes that make you murmur a quiet “mmm…” in delight.

Later, we learned that Rosa Rossa is quite the popular spot for dinner — Johnny Depp reportedly dined there while filming in Venice.

Here’s the link again, with details and a map. The restaurant is just a short walk from La Fenice Opera House and the elegant Scala Contarini del Bovolo — a perfect triangle of art, food, and beauty.

https://sites.google.com/view/ristoranterosarossa/home